SKINCARE

This guide is primarily aimed at men who are getting older, as women generally have fairly well established skincare habits. However, the information is transferable to either gender and maybe you girls might learn something too! The desire for youthfulness (aka fear of death and decay) is a natural human phenomena which is exploited in western culture with overpriced creams, serums with obscure ingredients and even devices to affect how the skin appears on the outside. While there are a plethora of brands and products out there marketed specifically at skincare, the science is established and the good news is that underneath all that marketing BS it is fairly a simple and straightforward process to obtain and maintain healthy skin.

Factors such as fear of looking unattractive and therefore not finding a partner, or just feeling ugly or haggard with the resulting lowering of your self esteem can all serve to bring you down, so understanding and implementing a skincare routine might be exactly what you need. It was certainly the case for me that after some chronic toxic stress in my early 40s I really noticed the effects of premature aging each time I looked in the mirror, and so decided to learn how to sort it out! Here is that guide, the result of a lot of pain, stress, research and expenditure trying different things until I was able to distill all that down into a practical, sustainable approach that really works.

Skin: the exterior expression of what we consume

It may seem obvious but it needs to be said that what you subject your body to is going to be reflected in your external appearance. These factors are critical to understand before you spend any money on skincare products.

1. Hydration – Drinking enough water is critical to ensure that your skin cells remain hydrated. You need to operate a hydration policy as a fundamental approach to your life. Unless its some kind of special occasion I only drink water, and the cleanest water possible. That is usually water filtered through a gravity fed candle filter system, and stored in a stainless steel 750ml bottle. I add a scoop of electrolyte powder and drink 3 or more of these bottles per day. I personally do not drink tea, coffee or alcohol EVER. There are benefits to consuming some tea, most notably compounds like L-Theanine and EGCG; however you will find these in my supplement stack minus the caffeine and potential toxins found in both coffee and tea bags.

2. Smoking – This ages your skin, end of story. Nicotine constricts blood vessels meaning tissues become deprived of oxygen. It also affects availability of vitamin C which is critical for collagen production and without this your skin becomes dry and wrinkly. Furthermore, the lack of oxygen leaves the skin with a grey pallor and, over time, the loss of collagen reduces elasticity and skin begins to sag. If you value the appearance of your skin, do not smoke. End of story. If you do currently smoke and are able to stop, results will be visible in a matter of 3-4 weeks even if you have smoked for decades. I was, at one time, a smoker and was very pleased to discover that, upon quitting, the colour and firmness returned to my skin quite quickly. See my article on smoking for more information on how it affects the mind and body, and how I quit.

3. Diet – A poor diet is going to reflect in numerous ways. Oily skin, dermatitis, alopecia, acne etc. are all manifestations of malnutrition or excess toxicity in what we eat. Processed dairy products are laden with hormones which can affect our own hormonal balance. Diets lacking in essential vitamins and minerals can lead to dry skin, inflammatory foods and imbalances of omega fats can further add to this negative skin expression. All of this is easily avoided however, by adopting a healthy diet as described elsewhere on this site! See this study for more information: https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC10982215/

4. Stress – Cortisol, the stress hormone, has a significant effect on skin which is very similar to smoking, and it will accelerate aging (no wonder it is also known as the death hormone). Severe cortisol such as that produced in cases of PTSD have a very pronounced effect, but this is also reversible once the source of trauma has been eliminated. The secondary effect of stress is that which it exerts on the digestive system, and which will therefore produce some of the diet related effects too.

5. Sun exposure – The sun is a double edged sword. IR rays are life giving and energise our mitochondria, but UV rays damage the skin. Avoid sun exposure when the UV index is above 4, and get your sunlight in the morning or evening. You see people who have lived for years in very sunny climates with a leathery skin rough in texture and sagging. Personally I am not a fan of having to put on sun cream a lot, but I also live in England which is not known for its hot climate! We get 3-4 months of decent weather each year at the most, with the occasional summer being a complete washout. If sun exposure is more of an issue where you are located then either avoid excessive UV exposure or use a good mineral sunscreen.

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A 3-step process for facial skincare optimisation

My skincare process can be broken down into three stages with a couple of options for each. In terms of consumables, I use good quality fairly priced brands such as Natures Greatest Secret, The Ordinary, Good Molecules & SR-Skincare. Once you are armed with the names of the specific ingredients it will be much easier to make sense of the skincare market and avoid the overpriced products that have their eyes on your wallet.

Step 1: Cleansing

The first step in any skincare routine is to detox the skin of both oils and other substances excreted by the body, and any environmental toxins that have stuck to the face. There are 3 different ways to do this:

1. Soap free cleanser (daily) – A gentle face wash will keep pores clean and remove the grime attracted to your face during the day. Both solid bars like the Good Molecules products, or foaming cleansers are good. Just choose something with natural ingredients and not too much big brand marketing. We are looking to detox our skin, not add to the chemical load in our body! I sometimes use a colloidal silver product to ensure that there’s no bacteria on my face that could cause redness or infection.

2. Glycolic peel (twice weekly) – A mild chemical exfoliant that removes surface dead skin cells, applied with a cotton pad. Even after cleansing you can see how much dirt this removes!

3. Face mask (fortnightly) – Kaolin clay and other ingredients are used to absorb toxins from the top layer of skin and also infuse minerals. These leave the skin feeling very clean and soft. If you suffer oily skin or blocked pores you may want to use a charcoal peel mask occasionally.

4. Acid peel (fortnightly) – A stronger fruit acid peel dislodges and clears the top layer of dead skin cells which improves surface texture and allows your creams and serums to penetrate more efficiently.

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Step 2(a): Morning Treatment

After the cleansing of your skin, mix up these serums in the palm of one hand and spread them evenly onto your face. You want enough that you can cover the face but not so much that its running down your cheeks afterwards. Any excess can be rubbed into the hands, and you’ll get a hang for how many drops you need after a few tries. Doing this 3 or 4 times a week is enough to get visible benefits.

Hyaluronic Acid serum – This is the basis of facial treatments as it aids in transportation of the other ingredients through the skin. I also take HA internally every time I swallow supplements because again it aids with the transport of substances into the body.

Vitamin C serum – A potent antioxidant that helps neutralise free radicals, reducing signs of aging and promoting collagen production for firmer skin. It also aids in brightening the complexion by fading hyperpigmentation and evening out skin tone.

Niacinamide serum – Also known as vitamin B3, it helps regulate oil production, minimise the appearance of pores, and improve skin texture. It also has anti-inflammatory properties, reducing redness and irritation, making it suitable for sensitive skin.

Resveratrol / Ferulic Acid – Potent antioxidants that, when combined, synergistically neutralize free radicals, enhance skin firmness, and brighten the complexion. This powerful duo not only combats oxidative stress but also boosts the stability and efficacy of other antioxidants, providing comprehensive protection against environmental damage

Step 2(b): Evening treatment

Similar to the morning routine, mix serums in the hand and apply to the face, gently working them until until fully absorbed. Retinol is powerful and you don’t need to do this every day; 2 or 3 times a week is sufficient.

Hyaluronic acid serum – Again, this facilitates the absorption of the other serums and the moisturiser that follows.

Rosehip Oil – Contains beta carotene which the body can convert into retinol like compounds while being well tolerated by all skin types, unlike retinol itself.

Retinol 1% – By combining this with rosehip we get the benefits of a large amount of retinol without the potential side effects

Resveratrol / Ferulic Acid – safe and effective enough to be used twice a day, a few drops is all it takes.

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Step 3: Moisturisers

There are two main ingredients in moisturisers relevant to longevity and anti aging:

1. Volufiline – This marvellous substance Volufiline is a patented cosmetic ingredient derived from natural plant extracts, notably the roots of Anemarrhena asphodeloides. It’s recognised for its potential to enhance skin volume and firmness through non-invasive means.

• Skin Plumping and Volume Enhancement: Volufiline is believed to stimulate adipocyte differentiation, leading to increased fat storage in specific areas. This process can result in a fuller appearance, making it a sought-after ingredient for enhancing facial contours and other body parts.
• Improved Skin Firmness and Elasticity: Regular application of Volufiline-infused products can enhance skin elasticity and firmness, leading to a more toned and resilient appearance.
• Reduction of Fine Lines and Wrinkles: By promoting volume in the skin, Volufiline may help diminish the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, contributing to a more youthful complexion.
• Non-Invasive Alternative to Fillers: For individuals seeking to enhance their appearance without resorting to injections or surgical procedures, Volufiline offers a topical solution that can be easily incorporated into daily skincare routines.
  

2. GHK-Cu – This peptide is a naturally occurring complex found in human plasma and saliva. When applied directly to the skin it has significant rejuvenation properties.

• Even Skin Tone: GHK-Cu helps even out skin tone by stabilizing skin proteins, leading to a more consistent and smoother appearance.
• Enhanced Collagen Production: GHK-Cu stimulates collagen synthesis, improving skin elasticity and reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
• Anti-Inflammatory Properties: It possesses anti-inflammatory effects, helping to calm skin inflammation and reduce oxidative damage.
• Wound Healing: GHK-Cu facilitates tissue repair by attracting immune cells and enhancing antioxidant defenses, making it beneficial for wound healing and post-surgical recovery.
• Improved Skin Elasticity: Regular use of GHK-Cu can enhance skin elasticity, aiding in the reduction of sagging and promoting a firmer complexion.

I apply the Volufiline in the morning and the GHK-Cu in the evening roughly 50% of the time since too much moisturiser can cause greasy skin and is just a waste of product.

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Supplements that enhance the skin

1. Collagen Peptides – Collagen is a primary structural protein in the skin, providing firmness and elasticity. Supplementation may help improve skin hydration and reduce wrinkles.

2. Vitamin C – Essential for collagen synthesis, vitamin C also acts as an antioxidant, protecting the skin from oxidative stress and aiding in the repair of damaged skin cells.

3. Omega-3 Fish Oil – Rich in EPA and DHA, omega-3 fatty acids help maintain skin’s lipid barrier, reducing dryness and inflammation. They may also alleviate symptoms of skin conditions like eczema and psoriasis.

4. Biotin (Vitamin B7) – Supports the health of skin, hair, and nails. Adequate biotin levels are associated with improved skin hydration and smoothness.

5. Astaxanthin – A potent antioxidant that helps protect the skin from UV-induced damage, potentially improving skin elasticity and reducing the appearance of fine lines.

6. Hyaluronic Acid – Naturally present in the skin, it retains moisture, leading to plumper and more hydrated skin. Supplementation can enhance skin hydration and elasticity.

7. Vitamin D3 – Plays a role in skin cell growth and repair. Adequate levels may help prevent skin aging and support the skin’s immune system.

8. Selenium – An antioxidant that helps protect the skin from oxidative damage. Adequate selenium levels are associated with a lower risk of skin infections and may support overall skin health.

9. Zinc (Triple Zinc) – Essential for skin repair and inflammation control. Zinc supplementation can aid in managing acne and other inflammatory skin conditions.

10. Turmeric/Ginger – Both have anti-inflammatory properties. Turmeric, in particular, contains curcumin, which may help reduce skin inflammation and redness.

11. Green Tea Extract – Contains polyphenols that have antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, potentially improving skin elasticity and reducing damage from UV exposure.

12. Resveratrol – An antioxidant that helps protect the skin from environmental damage and may improve skin elasticity and reduce the appearance of fine lines.

13. Coenzyme Q10 – An antioxidant that helps protect the skin from oxidative stress and may improve skin texture and reduce the appearance of wrinkles.

14. Lutein and Zeaxanthin – Carotenoids that may help protect the skin from UV-induced damage and improve skin hydration and elasticity.

15. Gotu Kola extract – Enhances skin health by stimulating collagen production, accelerating wound healing, providing antioxidant protection, improving hydration and skin barrier function, and reducing scarring and stretch marks.

Incorporating these supplements as part of a balanced diet and skincare routine can support overall skin health.

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Level up even further with a dermaroller

Dermarollers cause micro-damage to the skin and result in a healing response. Tiny needles pierce the top layers of the epidermis and as a result fibroblasts and collagen are created. When done repeatedly this increases thickness of the skin and density of collagen, and results in a more youthful appearance. Think of it like bodybuilding but for the skin on your face!

For general facial skin rejuvenation, using needles of 0.25 – 0.5mm in length is your best option. Deeper needles are used for acne scarring and other issues but that is not within the scope of this article. I am showing you a long term protocol which will result in youthful looking skin for years to come, without too much investment in terms of either time or cost.

I use my dermaroller once every 14 days, right after the clay face mask and 7 days apart from the chemical skin peel. The technique is to roll it over the skin several times before moving to a different area. I do 8 back and forth movements in each location and work my way around the face until it has all been covered, paying particular attention to the sides of the eyes and the cheekbones. The whole process takes about 3 minutes and I do this just before the Step 2 serum application in the evening, since damaging the skin opens it further for the retinol to penetrate and work on a deeper level.

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Proven clinical interventions

If you want to got even further and kick start your anti aging skincare protocol with a serious upgrade there are two restorative treatments which are worth considering. They go hand in hand to clear the appearance of skin and improve its texture. Eye bags, dropping jowls, hooded eyelids, and patches of sun damage can all be mitigated to a significant level and reversals in appearance of 5-10 years are possible when these two treatments are combined.

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SHOPPING LIST

• Good molecules cleansing bar
• Soap-free foaming face wash with colloidal silver
• The Ordinary 7% Glycolic Acid Peel
• The Ordinary Hyaluronic Acid Serum
• The Ordinary Vitamin C Serum
• The Ordinary Niacinamide Serum
• The Ordinary Resveratrol & Ferrulic Acid Serum
• The Ordinary Retinol 1% in Squalane
• The Ordinary Rosehip Oil
• Kaolin Clay Face Mask
• Volufiline moisturiser
• GHK-Cu moisturiser
• 0.25 & 0.5mm titanium dermarollers (good for 3-4 months bimonthly use)
• Bleach free cotton makeup removal pads